White tea, a term first seen in the ‘Tea Classic’ written by the tea sage Lu Yu, refers to ‘Bai Cha Mountain’ located 300 li east of Yongjia County, which is now known as Fuding City. Fuding is the birthplace of the ‘King of White Tea’ – Bai Hao Yin Zhen, situated at an optimal position of 27 degrees north latitude within China’s ‘white tea belt’. White tea is a specialty of China, with its main production areas concentrated in Fuding, Zhenghe in Fujian Province, and Yunnan.
Most people begin their journey with white tea by starting with Fuding white tea, due to its higher production and greater fame. Those well-versed in white tea have heard the saying: ‘White tea of the world is in China, and white tea of China is in Fuding.’ White tea is a lightly fermented tea category. Its quality is characterized by a needle-like shape, covered with dense white hairs, silvery in color, shining brightly, and its soup and leaf base are light and clear, hence the name ‘white tea’. The traditional method involves sun-drying fresh buds and leaves until they are dry, without frying or kneading, keeping the buds and leaves intact, and covered with white hairs. The tea-making process mainly relies on sun-drying and air-drying, which is not complicated. There are differing views on the history of white tea’s creation in the field of tea studies. Some believe that white tea originated in the Northern Song Dynasty, when the royal tea gardens (bei) were established in Jian’an County (now Jian’ou City) in Fujian, in Beiyuan (now the eastern part of Jian’ou City). The ‘Daguan Tea Theory’ mentions white tea as an early wild white tea produced on the tea mountains of Beiyuan Imperial Bei. Its production method still involved steaming, pressing, and shaping to make tea cakes, which is quite different from the current white tea production method. Others think that white tea began in the Ming or Qing Dynasty, and scholars who hold this view mainly distinguish tea categories based on tea-making methods, as the production process of white tea only goes through ‘withering and drying’ two steps. Fuding Wans’ Liuxiang Tea Garden, when examining the origin of white tea from written records, first saw its name in Song Zian’s ‘Dongxi Tea Record’, and the most clear and accurate is Emperor Huizong of Song, Zhao Jie’s ‘Daguan Tea Theory’. During the Shaosheng years of the Northern Song Dynasty (1094-1098), white tea had already been used as tribute. In the Song Dynasty, tea people considered the rich and snowy white buds as the best in the world during tea competitions. At that time, the production of white tea was very scarce, only for the emperor’s use, and extremely precious. Beiyuan tea farmers regarded white tea as ‘Tea Rui’, treating this auspicious tea as the best for tea competitions. The formal formation of white tea processing and production methods took place during the Jiaqing years of the Qing Dynasty (around 1796). According to the records of Fujian tea history: due to the large backlog of black tea at that time, tea farmers in Zhenghe County changed to produce white tea for export, and since then, white tea has become a formal category of tea; and the basic methods of white tea processing have been passed down to this day. Currently, the main production areas of white tea are in Zhenghe, Fuding, Jianyang, Songxi, and other counties in Fujian Province.The region is characterized by rolling hills and a mild, pleasant climate throughout the year, with ample rainfall. The mountainous areas are predominantly composed of red and yellow soils, which are ideal for cultivating superior tea plant varieties such as Fuding Da Bai, Zhenghe Da Bai, and Jianyang Narcissus. Due to differences in the raw materials and processes used, the white teas produced can be categorized into: Bai Hao Yin Zhen, Bai Mu Dan, Gong Mei, and Shou Mei.
According to ‘A Study on the History of Tea in Fujian’, white tea was originally created in Fuding, where the silver needle was picked from the fresh leaves of the vegetable tea tree (a native tea species in Northeast Fujian). The Fuding Da Bai tea variety is native to Taimu Mountain, with the ancient tea name ‘Lv Xue Ya’. Around 1857, it was cultivated and by 1865, the silver needle was made from the buds of the Da Bai tea, hence the name ‘Da Bai’. Those picked from the vegetable tea are referred to as ‘Xiao Bai’. The history of white tea in Zhenghe County is even more ancient. ‘Xuanhe Beiyuan Tribute Tea Record’ states: ‘White tea was made in the second year of Zhenghe (1112 AD)’. At that time, Zhenghe was part of Jianzhou Beiyuan (now the eastern part of Jian’ou City in Northern Fujian) and was famous for its white tea production. Around 1880, after the cultivation of Tie Shan Da Bai tea, the silver needle was made in 1889, and Bai Mu Dan was not made until 1922. Bai Mu Dan was originally created in Ouning Shuiji (now part of Jianyang), and its exact origin time is still under investigation, but it seems to be after the production of white tea in Fuding and before that in Zhenghe. It can be asserted that the history of white tea manufacturing started in Fuding and then spread to Zhenghe. In terms of tea-making types, there was first ‘Xiao Bai’, followed by ‘Da Bai’. Among the six major types of tea, white tea has the longest withering time. The production process of Fuding white tea only includes two steps: withering and drying. The quality of the finished tea largely depends on the withering process. ‘The Great Dictionary of Chinese Tea’ annotates withering as follows: ‘The first step in the initial processing of black tea, oolong tea, and white tea. Fresh leaves are spread under certain equipment and environmental conditions to evaporate water, reduce volume, soften the leaves, and enhance enzyme activity, causing changes in the internal substances and promoting the formation of tea quality. The main technical factors include temperature, humidity, ventilation, and time, with the key being to control the degree of water and chemical changes. White tea has the most severe withering, followed by black tea, and then oolong tea.’ In the 1960s, the withering method of Fuding white tea underwent a change, shifting from the original sun withering and complex withering to indoor heated withering methods. In recent years, with continuous technological innovation, the actual scale-driven force has made indoor heated withering technology increasingly mature. This has allowed Fuding white tea production to be unaffected by climatic factors, resulting in an unprecedented increase in annual output.Different varieties of Bai Cha, such as Bai Hao Yin Zhen, Bai Mu Dan, Shou Mei, and new process Bai Cha, utilize distinct withering methods and durations. Bai Hao Yin Zhen typically employs sun withering. During withering, tea buds are evenly spread thinly on bamboo trays or water screens. Overlapping of tea buds should be avoided as it can turn black. Placed under sunlight for natural withering, once spread, they should be left undisturbed on racks to prevent mechanical damage that could turn the buds red or damage the fine hairs on the tea buds.
The total withering time ranges from 48 to 72 hours. Skilled tea makers on-site adjust the process based on experience, observing climate (southerly or northerly winds), tea water runoff, color changes, and dryness of the leaves. They slowly bake the tea over a low fire until it is dry. Bai Mu Dan and Shou Mei have similar withering methods, primarily focusing on indoor temperature-controlled withering. Fresh leaves are withered using hot air blown into a withering room, taking about 25 to 30 hours, with the leaves retaining about 25% moisture. This method preserves the traditional style and quality of Bai Mu Dan, rivaling naturally withered products, while significantly reducing withering time and being unaffected by weather. ‘Compound withering’ combines sun withering and indoor natural withering, a complex method that skilled tea masters use to produce Fuding Bai Cha with excellent taste. New process Bai Cha can use any of the above withering methods, with shorter times and slightly lower degrees of withering. Regardless of the method, changes occur within the tea leaves during withering. Bai Cha withering is not merely the loss of water from fresh leaves but a series of changes in internal components due to the gradual loss of water, changes in cell membrane permeability, and the activation of various enzymes under certain external temperature and humidity conditions, thus forming the unique quality of Bai Cha. Classification of Bai Cha varies based on tea plant varieties and the standards of fresh leaf picking. According to different fresh leaf materials, it can be divided into four subcategories: Bai Hao Yin Zhen, Bai Mu Dan, Gong Mei, and Shou Mei. Characteristics of Bai Hao Yin Zhen: The bud is plump and sturdy, standing like a needle, covered with white hairs, with a silver-white, dazzling color, resembling silver needles. Aroma characteristics: The aroma is elegant and fresh. It mainly includes floral and other scents. Over time, the aroma of Bai Hao Yin Zhen can gradually change, possibly presenting more complex scents like fruit and honey. Taste characteristics: The taste is light and fresh, crisp and delicious. The tea soup is clear and transparent, with a light apricot yellow color, rich and mellow, with a strong and heavy flavor, smooth and non-astringent. Characteristics of Bai Mu Dan: The bud is quite plump, with leaves tightly wrapped around the bud, resembling a flower. The leaves are plump and tender, with a strong heart and a gray-green color, interspersed with silver-white hairs, forming a ‘heart-holding’ shape.The leaves have a slight curl towards the back of the leaf, connected to the stem with buds, making them very aesthetically pleasing. Aroma characteristics: It has both downy fragrance and a rich, mellow, and refreshing compound flavor, making it more palatable. Taste characteristics: The taste is sweet, mellow, and refreshing, with a high level of freshness. The tea soup is smooth and thick, not thin. After brewing, the soup color is apricot yellow or orange yellow, clear and bright.
Gongmei tea tree variety: Mass selection (vegetable tea tree). Appearance characteristics: Gongmei resembles Bai Mudan, but is slightly smaller in size. Its leaves are small, with a small downy heart and a color of gray-green and yellow. Aroma characteristics: Gongmei’s aroma is naturally fresh, with a scent of bamboo leaves and herbs, sometimes with a sweet and refreshing tea rhyme. As the number of infusions increases, the aroma may become more active and clear. Taste characteristics: It is sweet and refreshing, mellow and comfortable, with a long-lasting aftertaste. The soup is rich, delicate, and the leaves are uniform, soft, and bright. Shoumei appearance characteristics: Shoumei’s appearance is relatively rough, with buds and leaves connected to the stem, and some torn leaves. The color is gray-green or dark green, with a small downy heart, some leaves have down on the back, and the downy needle is silver white. High-quality Shoumei has no wax leaves, seeds, or old stems. Aroma characteristics: The aroma is fresh and pure, with a slight downy fragrance, and as the storage time extends, it may transform into dates, medicinal fragrances, etc. Taste characteristics: The taste is sweet, mellow, thick, and mellow, with a strong taste and more endurance. Classified by season, there are spring white tea and autumn white tea: In spring white tea, there are Bai Hao Yinzhen, Bai Mudan, and spring Shoumei. In autumn white tea, mainly autumn Shoumei is produced, a small amount of autumn Mudan is customized, and Bai Hao Yinzhen is not produced. Classified by shape, there are loose tea and compressed tea: Shape refers to the appearance of white tea that we usually see. There are currently two common forms of white tea, one is loose tea, and the other is compressed tea. Loose tea is white tea that is directly collected after being spread, withered, and dried. Compressed tea is made by shaping loose tea, with shapes such as cakes, bricks, and chocolate bricks. Classified by tea garden altitude, there are high mountain tea and non-high mountain tea: High mountain clouds produce good tea, and the quality of white tea is easily affected by altitude. In Fuding, tea gardens are generally between 600-800 meters, which can be classified as high mountain tea. Fuding high mountain white tea and Taiwan high mountain oolong (altitude not less than 1000 meters) naturally have differences, after all, the mountain altitude is different. Whether it is a high mountain tea should be determined according to local conditions, based on the local altitude. Taiwan white tea is classified by cultivation method into wild white tea, abandoned white tea, and terraced white tea: Wild white tea refers to white tea that is not managed and cared for all year round, and grows in the wilderness.Pao Huang Bai Cha refers to white tea plants that are grown on the edges of tea gardens and have been abandoned for several years. Tai Di Bai Cha, on the other hand, refers to tea gardens that are under long-term care and management by dedicated personnel. The different cultivation methods result in distinctly different flavors of white tea. White tea is categorized based on storage years into new, aged, and old white tea: According to the latest national standards from 2018, white tea that meets the criteria (moisture content not higher than 8.5%) can be stored for a long time. During this long-term storage, it is divided into three stages. Some consider three years as the boundary, but I personally believe ten years is more accurate. New Bai Cha: Refers to white tea that has been processed in the same year. Aged Bai Cha: Refers to white tea that has been stored for 1-10 years. Old Bai Cha: Refers to white tea that has been stored for no less than ten years. Brewing utensils for Bai Cha: Porcelain Gaiwan or glass tea sets are most suitable for brewing Bai Cha, as they do not absorb the tea’s aroma, allowing the tea’s color and fragrance to be perfectly presented. Tea to water ratio: This varies depending on the brewing method and the type of utensils used. The amount of tea is usually one-third of the Gaiwan, and the tea to water ratio is approximately 1:20. Water temperature: New Bai Cha should generally not exceed 95 degrees Celsius, while old Bai Cha requires water temperatures above 95 degrees Celsius. (High-grade Bai Cha such as Bai Hao Yin Zhen and Bai Mu Dan are compatible with water temperatures around 85 degrees Celsius, while mature Bai Cha like Gong Mei and Shou Mei can use boiling water at 90-100 degrees Celsius). Brewing time: Bai Hao Yin Zhen: Recommended water temperature: 90-95 degrees Celsius, tea amount: 5 grams, water pouring method: wall-circling pouring, tea pouring method: quick outflow (for the first 3 infusions, 12-15 seconds for outflow, and then extend by 5 seconds for each subsequent infusion). Bai Mu Dan: Recommended water temperature: 90-95 degrees Celsius, tea amount: 5 grams, water pouring method: wall-circling pouring, tea pouring method: quick outflow (for the first three infusions, 15-20 seconds for outflow, and then extend by 5 seconds for each subsequent infusion). Gong Mei, Shou Mei: Recommended water temperature: 100 degrees Celsius, tea amount: 5 grams, water pouring method: direct pouring, tea pouring method: quick outflow (for the first three infusions, 20 seconds for outflow, and then extend by 10 seconds for each subsequent infusion). Old Bai Cha, after aging, has a slightly slower extraction rate of the substances inside the tea leaves compared to new Bai Cha. The first infusion can be 20 seconds for outflow, and from the third infusion onwards, the outflow time can be appropriately increased by 10-15 seconds based on the concentration of the tea soup and personal taste. It is well-known that Bai Cha has collectible attributes, which also determines the differences between new and old Bai Cha. The brewing details must be paid special attention to. New Bai Cha is wasted if boiled to drink, while old Bai Cha becomes more mellow and fragrant when boiled. Old Bai Cha must be rinsed (awakened), but new Bai Cha does not need to be. Old Bai Cha can be steeped in a cup, while new Bai Cha requires quick outflow. New Bai Cha is suitable for cold brewing (Silver Needle is the best, followed by Peony). Old Bai Cha has a mild nature, while new Bai Cha has a cooler nature.
The delicate fragrance of white tea is primarily composed of molecules such as linalool and simple aliphatic compounds. During the initial withering stage, as the leaf temperature rises, linalool volatilizes in large amounts and transforms into its trans isomer, along with simple aliphatic molecules produced by high-temperature degradation, which together form the characteristic fresh aroma. Floral scents are common in Fuding white tea and manifest in various forms, including gardenia, orchid, and osmanthus fragrances. These aromatic substances are generally generated during processing, with different boiling points and varying proportions creating distinct effects, contributing to the diverse aroma profile of white tea.
Fruity aromas in white tea, a minimally fermented tea, are not inherent but develop over time, emitting various fruit scents. While these are mostly undetectable in loose tea, they become more common with the advent of white tea cakes, originating from the rupture of leaf cells and increased fermentation. The expressions of these aromas are diverse, with date fragrance being one of them. Downy aroma, derived from the dense white downy hairs on the buds and leaf backs of white tea, emits a unique plant fragrance when the downy hairs fall into the tea liquid in large quantities. Generally, the more downy hairs, the richer the downy aroma. Bai Hao Yin Zhen is a typical example of ‘downy aroma and honey-like charm’, which can be sensed in the air without even getting close, akin to the feeling of a spring breeze. Honey aroma, sweet and lingering, is more commonly found in aged Bai Hao Yin Zhen. The appearance of aged silver needles becomes deeper over time, presenting a stable silver-gray or brownish hue. High-quality aged silver needles have a lasting and pleasant honey sweetness, making them rare and precious. Lotus leaf aroma, reminiscent of the scent of lotus leaves or described as minty, is not commonly found in aged white tea and requires proper storage to retain. Paddy aroma, similar to the scent of ripe rice, is common in Bai Hao Yin Zhen aged for over three years. The longer the aging time, the more intense the paddy aroma. Zongye aroma, similar to the scent of the leaves used for wrapping zongzi (rice dumplings), is refreshing and comfortable. Plum aroma, like the scent of dried plums, is slightly sweet and sour and is common in aged white tea that has been stored for many years. Soybean aroma, close to the scent of soy milk or soybeans, and cocoa aroma, similar to the scent of cocoa beans, are common in Bai Hao Yin Zhen aged for over five years. Aged aroma, a natural scent produced by white tea over many years of aging, is similar to the smell of aged wood. Date aroma, like the scent of cooked red dates, appears in aged Shou Mei tea cakes. Herbal aroma, a scent reminiscent of Chinese herbal medicine, appears when aged white tea over ten years is brewed. It is not strong or irritating but rather comforting. Regarding the storage of white tea, under good storage conditions, white tea has several drinking periods, each with its unique flavor: The first drinking period is when the newly made tea is the most tender, carrying a fresh sweetness in its aroma, offering a sweet and refreshing taste.At this stage, the moisture in the tea has just dissipated, with a predominance of coolness, making it suitable for light tasting. The second period for tasting: after three years, the watery taste in the tea has faded, and through subsequent transformation, its inherent quality gradually precipitates, the taste becomes more stable, and the sense of thickness increases, with the coolness dissipated. The third period for tasting: around ten years, the aroma evolves into endless possibilities over time, with the original fragrance transforming into aged, honey-like scents, and even floral, fruity, and medicinal aromas are possible, while the taste becomes increasingly rich and mellow.
What should be noted when storing white tea? White tea at room temperature does not require refrigeration and can undergo normal transformation in a normal temperature environment. Increasing the temperature to accelerate the transformation of white tea is not advisable, as high temperatures can destroy the active components of the tea, leading to spoilage. Avoiding light is essential, as it can cause oxidation, darkening of the tea color, and decomposition of effective components, affecting the taste. Dryness is crucial; only sufficiently dry tea can be stored for a long time without spoilage. Once tea becomes damp, it is prone to mold and spoilage. When storing white tea, avoid contact with floors and ceilings to prevent moisture absorption. Odorless storage is important, as tea easily absorbs odors, so avoid contact with items with strong smells. For storage vessels, white tea can be stored in wooden boxes, metal cans, or ceramic jars, but it is important to ensure they are sealed to prevent dampness and odor absorption. When storing white tea in the south, typical of Guangdong and Fujian, with warm and humid climates, abundant rainfall, and high year-round temperatures, the air contains a lot of moisture. Such climatic characteristics are beneficial for the post-fermentation of tea but pose certain risks for storage. If the air contains too much moisture and the temperature is too high, mold can form, leading to the so-called ‘wet storage’ tea. Therefore, white tea stored in the south should remember the following keywords: dryness, sealing, regular sampling checks, ventilation and dryness, separate storage, and light avoidance. In the north, represented by Beijing, the climate is dry, with temperatures below 10 degrees Celsius for almost half the year, and even lower in December. When storing tea in such an environment, remember the following keywords: sealing, maintaining temperature, odorless, and light avoidance.
